Sustainability in all aspects, from environmental to social

Featured in The Somm Journal | Oct - Nov 2023

IN THE BEVERAGE industry, we all know how important hospitality spaces are when it comes to not only connecting and tasting with guests but the craft of food pairing and of beverage production itself.

Beverage professionals who work in bars, tasting rooms, and restaurants are directly tied to their communities and get to enjoy the immediate gratification of guests enjoying their curated selections and creations.

It can be a tough corner of the industry to work in, however, and it’s been begging for change for some time now. Many independent businesses are plagued by a lack of organizational infrastructure and accountability as well as wage disparity, social inequity, and, often, unhealthy work environments. Many passionate professionals looking to pursue a legitimate and fulfilling career in hospitality have been chewed up and spit out by the long hours, impossibly thin margins, labor shortages, and normalization of substance abuse.

I hold the role of beverage director for Id Est in Colorado. Our concepts—The Wolf’s Tailor, Basta, Dry Storage, Hey Kiddo/Ok Yeah, and BRUTØ—run the gamut between fine dining establishments, bars, and casual dinner spots. I began as a host at our first spot, Basta, and stayed committed to the organization because I was moved by its ethos. Working in these spaces has always been so much more than serving food and wine.

The leadership keeps environmental consciousness and impact at the core of decision-making in the kitchen and bars through practices like zero-waste initiatives and extremely thoughtful sourcing that supports regenerative agriculture and viticulture. We are not alone in these sustainability practices; over the years they have become more common and are even expected in respected contemporary restaurants and bars.

There is a new frontier when it comes to true sustainability, though, as the term can no longer be limited to an exclusively environmental definition. A recent push by activists, leaders, and educators to focus on social sustainability is giving me a sense of optimism about where the industry is headed.

“On a large scale, I am seeing folks creating channels to address the toxic aspects of workplace culture, incongruities in work-life balance, and the need for employee protections while holding leaders accountable on equity and inclusion efforts.”

More energy and resources are being allocated to mental health, HR, and zero-proof programming. There is momentum for these changes from the local level all the way to high-profile trade conferences and national award stages.

Admittedly, there is a lot more work to be done in this arena. It can be painful and requires intense self-reflection. But it’s heartening to be part of a generation of change that could have a lasting impact for hospitality work and the people who make it special. I am seeing more opportunity for beverage leaders who embrace conscious values, believe in establishing healthy spaces, and speak up when sustainability efforts veer off course. My hope is that other leaders from around the beverage trade perceive the same promising horizon as I do and are inspired to contribute to this important moment of reconstruction in the hospitality industry.

Arianna Spoto is the Director of Wine + Hospitality at Id Est Hospitality Group in Colorado. You can connect with her on LinkedIn.