A Region Reawakens

SHINING A SPOTLIGHT ON NAVARRA, ONE OF SPAIN’S MOST OVERLOOKED WINEGROWING AREAS

by Lorea Amatria

AMONG WINE’S MANY powers is its ability to transport you to other places. This especially came in handy during 2020 and most of this year, when most of us were deprived of the ability to travel. A bright Chianti can whisk you away to a Tuscan villa, an aromatic Riesling can take you to the foothills of the Rhine River, and a bold Carménère can make you feel as if you’ve landed in the rugged Cachapoal Valley. For me, a Spaniard living in New York, a great glass of wine from Navarra has been the perfect way to connect with my beloved land.

Author Lorea Amatria in a vineyard in Spain’s Navarra region

A region in northern Spain that extends from the country’s inner plains to the Pyrenees mountain range, Navarra is perhaps best known for the annual Festival of San Fermín, which was popularized by Ernest Hemingway and now attracts visitors from all over the world. However, there is much more to Navarra than the running of the bulls: superb gastronomy, diverse landscapes that range from expansive deserts to jagged mountains, and, of course, a long and rich winemaking history.

There is evidence that viticulture has existed in Navarra since the Roman era, with archeological finds like ancient amphorae and the remains of old wineries confirming the social and economic importance of wine at that time. It was during the late Middle Ages, however, that the region’s wines began to develop a more widespread reputation thanks to pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, a route that cuts through Navarra on its way toward the Galician coast and whose popularity continues to grow to this day.

The industry boomed in Navarra during the mid-19th century as phylloxera hit neighboring France, but it did not last long, as the blight arrived in the region a few years later, devastating 97% of the 50,000 hectares then planted. Thanks to significant efforts from the local government, including grafting on American rootstock, some of these vineyards were eventually reconstructed and saved.

But during the mid-20th century, many small family-owned vineyards fell into disuse due to conglomeration of the industry and changing demographics in rural areas. urrently, there are 10,000 cultivated hectares within DO Navarra, 94% of which are planted to red grapes; 70% are native varieties like Garnacha, which has long been linked to bright-pink rosé wines but is making a comeback as a new generation of winemakers focused on quality and authenticity produce fresh, delicate, and drinkable expressions that serve as a true reflection of the land. As my brother, upand-coming winemaker Josu Amatria, told me while he was restoring old Garnacha plantings, “I am not inventing anything new. These vines are almost 100 years old, and I am just trying to restore and love what was here.”

And there is a lot to love. Even though Navarra’s path as a wine region hasn’t been smooth and has sometimes been overshadowed by neighboring Rioja, its reawakening is being driven by the determination of a new generation of wine professionals who are fighting to further its legacy. Salud to all of them!

Lorea Amatria is an agricultural engineer and WSET Level 3 candidate from Pamplona, Spain, who now resides in New York City.

THE SOMM JOURNAL OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2021