FRESH VOICES: A Distinctive Dynamic by Elizabeth Dames

THE LIFE OF A SOMMELIER IN A PRIVATE CLUB

Featured in The Somm Journal | Dec 2022 - Jan 2023

“HAPPY BIRTHDAY! That was a superfun night! Thanks for all you do.” Though one might expect to receive a text like this after a night out with friends, it actually came from a member of the private club where I work as wine director. I had been working the floor on my birthday, and this particular member not only recognized the milestone and thanked me for being there but even had his son play me “Happy Birthday” on the grand piano while we all shared a glass of Champagne together.

Such interactions are not uncommon in private clubs. There is a distinctive dynamic between those serving and those being served that verges on familial in a way that is reminiscent of what is portrayed in Downton Abbey. Our guests know us and we know them, and the potential is there to develop lasting relationships.

As wine director, I therefore have the unique opportunity to learn their preferences intimately, which can then be translated into wine lists and events that engage them. However, I also consider it my role to expose them to more than the wines they already know and possibly expand their tastes. The most rewarding moments are when I successfully encourage members to venture outside their comfort zone to try something new, and they end up loving it. It’s beautiful to see someone realize that wine can be such an adventure! In private clubs, it’s about the long game. I don’t have to wonder in these moments if I’ll see my guests again: I know with certainty I’ll soon have another opportunity to guide them to something new.

“The most rewarding moments are when I successfully encourage members to venture outside their comfort zone to try something new, and they end up loving it. It’s beautiful to see someone realize that wine can be such an adventure!”

Yet another advantage to working in a private club is that I have the flexibility to create broader wine experiences. One of the most memorable examples is a wine tour of Champagne that I coordinated.

We visited the historical crayères (aging cellars) and learned about the impact of the World Wars on the French region. Such trips allow you to form a significant bond of respect and loyalty with members. The trust that they then place in you in the dining rooms is unbreakable, and the camaraderie that they continue to experience long after the trip is unparalleled. Working in private clubs has allowed me to build a multifaceted wine career—from serving as a floor sommelier to teaching educational courses to acting as a travel guide. Each of these roles has helped mold me into the wine professional that I am today.